![]() ![]() Having also tried the DIY colorimeter route, I would recommend against that but you may find it fun. Since then I wouldn’t even consider not having a professional calibration done. But after a while I began to think “Actually, those skin-tones do look very natural, don’t they? Oh, and those flowers actually are about that colour!” Everything looked real all of a sudden. I owned a plasma TV that I calibrated by eye and watched for about two years before having it professionally calibrated, and initially the difference was profoundly off-putting - reds and blues looked ridiculously over-saturated. Maybe you prefer to make your own version of the film that looks completely different. So I want my TV to have the same calibration settings as the monitor they used when making the recording. And what I want is to watch the film the way they wanted it to be seen. The way I see it, the mixing engineer who produced a recording (and the director and cinematographer of the film) spent a lot of time getting the film to look exactly the way they wanted it to look. My TV may be calibrated to the closest visuals the content creators envisaged but is that calibration a better viewing experience than my own eyes going through the settings? My plasma just got set by using posted values from other people who had professional calibration done…the numbers were remarkably close to each other on nearly a dozen displays. I have an i1 Display Pro that I use on my computer monitors, but don’t use it on my TVs, because the software really isn’t designed to handle the huge number of variables that modern displays can set. I don’t have much experience with current LCD backlight technologies, but I don’t think they lose much brightness over time…they either work or they die. After that, brightness will slowly decline, so you’d need to re-calibrate every year or so. I ran my plasma with various colored slides for a week before I put it into service. If you do calibrate, wait until at least 100 hours on the display, and probably 200-300 is better. Many calibration softwares allow a verification of the profile created, and run a series of test patches to confirm that the screen displays to within a set Delta E variation of true.If anyone has experience of calibration, professional or DIY, can they confirm whether one calibration suits every input device?ĭisplays that use a technology that is more likely to have image retention (like plasma or OLED) are also technologies that tend to degrade more over time. Once these choices are made, provided your calibrator and software have no issues, once the new icc profile is generated and loaded into your OS, the colour should be correct regardless of your TV, Phone, or I Pad.If you want them to show accurate colour, have them calibrated to similar standards. A basic editing intent might suggest 100 to 120 cdm2, D65, Native Gamut ( to get the most out of your screen) and a gamma of 2.2 When you calibrate your screen prior to creating your icc profile, you need to decide on the intent and make choices to suit that. to expect one profile to do everything is difficult to say the least. ![]() I get that you have multiple uses, I have a screen with multiple profiles for many uses. Of course they say your screen should be the brightest thing in your view, but no one said you should work outdoors ! I have blinds that I use in the "computer room", and I work in subdued lighting simply because no light falling on the screen can alter or influence the colour. 200cdm2 is so bright that if you were using a professional screen, using it at that brightness would cause issues with your warranty on the backlight ! ![]() I think it is hard for your screen to be a patchwork quilt, and cover all bases. ![]()
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